From Renaissance Revival to Rolex: Jewelry with a Story

There are jewelry auctions built around a single category, period, or designer, and then there are sales that invite you to move freely across centuries of style. On September 3, 2026, Brunk Auctions presents Jewelry | September 3, 2026, a 223-lot sale bringing together antique and period jewelry, important signed pieces, diamonds, watches, and accessories. The range is impressive: Renaissance Revival jewels sit alongside vintage Buccellati, while old-cut diamonds share the spotlight with a classic Rolex.

Featured Auction Highlights:
Carlo Giuliano Emerald and Enamel Bracelet (Lot 50)
One of the most historically compelling pieces in the auction is this Carlo Giuliano emerald and enamel bracelet, dating to circa 1874. At its center is a round faceted emerald surrounded by eight pear-shaped rubies and blue sapphires, all set within intricate black-and-white enameled openwork scrolls. Signed “CG,” the bracelet tests as 18kt yellow gold and comes with its original fitted leather case marked “C. Giuliano 115 Piccadilly London.”

Giuliano became celebrated for his Renaissance Revival jewelry, drawing inspiration from the rich colors, enamel work, and elaborate ornament of earlier European jewels. This bracelet embodies that aesthetic without feeling like a reproduction of the past. The emerald provides a vivid focal point, but it is the combination of gemstones, enamel, and finely worked gold that gives the piece its distinctive character.

Estimate: $20,000–$30,000.

A Vintage Buccellati Statement Necklace in Gold (Lot 96)
The 18kt vintage Buccellati satin beaded link necklace takes an entirely different approach to luxury. Rather than relying on gemstones, its appeal comes from texture, craftsmanship, and the warmth of gold itself.

The 24-inch necklace is composed of 43 brushed and patterned gold spheres, each measuring approximately 13mm. Signed “M. Buccellati” and weighing an impressive 175 grams, it has a hidden insert clasp that allows the uninterrupted rhythm of the beads to remain the focus.

That surface treatment is especially important. Buccellati is known for working gold in ways that can make the metal resemble silk, lace, or fabric, and here the satin finish gives the beads a softness that contrasts beautifully with their substantial scale. It is bold without being overly complicated, a necklace that makes its statement through material and workmanship. 

Estimate: $16,000–$22,000.

Rolex Presidential Diamond Dial Watch (Lot 104)
For watch collectors, the sale includes several Rolex models, led by an 18kt Rolex Presidential Diamond Dial Watchdating to circa 1989.

The 36mm Day-Date features a fluted bezel, champagne dial, diamond accents alongside Roman numeral hour markers, and the unmistakable 18kt yellow gold President bracelet. Reference 18238 and powered by Rolex calibre 3155, the watch weighs 142.7 grams and is accompanied by its box, papers, an extra link, and a 2025 appraisal report.

Its provenance adds another dimension: the watch comes from the collection of William W. Sauer of Virginia Beach, with proceeds benefiting the Children’s Hospital of The King’s Daughters in Norfolk, Virginia. It combines the enduring appeal of the Day-Date with the added presence of a diamond-set dial.

Estimate: $12,000–$18,000

A Vintage Toi et Moi Diamond Ring (Lot 75)
Few ring designs have the romantic staying power of the toi et moi, or “you and me,” setting. This vintage example places two substantial old European cut diamonds side by side: one weighing 2.53 carats, graded VS1 and L color by GIA, and the other weighing 2.27 carats, graded VS2 and L color. Eight old mine cut diamonds accent the platinum setting.

The pairing of antique-cut diamonds gives the ring a character quite different from a contemporary two-stone design. Old European and old mine cuts were shaped to perform beautifully in softer lighting, and their individual proportions and faceting contribute to the personality collectors value in antique diamonds.

Estimate: $10,000–$15,000.

Jewelry Across Generations

What makes this sale especially appealing is its range. A collector drawn to the scholarly craftsmanship of Giuliano may find themselves equally interested in the tactile goldwork of Buccellati, while watch enthusiasts and diamond collectors have plenty to explore as well.

Brunk Auctions’ Jewelry | September 3, 2026 sale brings those different collecting worlds together in one catalog, offering pieces that span periods and styles but share something important: distinctive craftsmanship and a strong sense of identity. For collectors looking beyond the simply beautiful toward jewelry with history, design, and personality, there is much here worth a closer look.

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