Central Asia, India, Mughal, ca. 1920 to 1930. A ravishing Mughal-inspired ring presenting a 2.02 carat Polki (Parab) flat, unfaceted diamond with a polished surface, set in an elaborate openwork 23K+ gold setting (98% gold). To the Mughal emperors and Indian maharajas, both the size and the quality of gemstones was of the utmost importance. The diamond in this ring is H-I in color, and approximately VS1 clarity. This is one of the oldest, natural forms of cut diamonds. Due to the absence of facets, which serve to reflect the light and therefore increase the stone's brightness, the diamond is backed with silver foil. The setting is entirely handmade, and features symmetrical, interwoven foliate scrolls, which is a prevalent feature of Mughal art and decoration. This ring was created in Rajasthan, India, which has been the center of Mughal and Kundan style jewellery for many centuries. Total weight: 16 grams. US ring size: 7.5. Diamond face .625" L x .45" W (1.6 cm x 1.1 cm) - a 2.02 carat Polki (Parab) flat, unfaceted diamond. Gold quality: 98%, equivalent to 23K+.
One of the most luxurious eras of jewelry making, the Mughal period gave rise to wearable art featuring opulent jewels and precious gold. Jewelry was worn by regals (including the king's horse), and women could own as many as 8 complete ensembles of jewelry. It was traditional to wear armlets, bracelets, as many as 15 strings of pearls, bands or strings of pearls on the legs, a floral or star shaped ornament on the head, and many rings, including a mirror ring which was worn on the right thumb.
Provenance: private Toronto, Ontario, Canada collection; ex-Rajiv Mehra Collection, Jaipur, Rajasthan, India, acquired during one of current owner's trips to India around 2000
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Only slight, nearly invisible scuffs to the gold shank. The openwork design of the gold is very well preserved. The diamond is tremendous, with wonderful luminosity.