Panama (Guna Yala), circa 1970s
13 × 16 inches
An exceptional complete traditional blouse featuring matched front and back mola panels worked in two layers of reverse appliqué, appliqué, and embroidery depicting paired figures in elaborate ceremonial dress, each panel presenting a richly detailed narrative scene against a black ground.
The front panel features two large male figures facing one another, rendered in yellow outlines with prominent headdresses or crowns featuring scalloped edges worked in red with green trim and multicolored vertical embroidered fill. Each figure's face is densely filled with multicolored vertical running-stitch embroidery, with a single white appliqué eye visible in profile. The figures wear crossed chest sashes worked in red, blue, and green with geometric patterning, and elaborate tiered garments decorated with rows of multicolored U-shaped or horseshoe motifs in red, pink, blue, orange, and green, with their arms extending outward. Densely embroidered stockings and red boots with white soles complete the costume. A smaller standing figure in red and orange with embroidered details appears between them.
The back panel presents two female figures with flowing hair depicted through multicolored embroidered chain stitches in green, orange, red, and yellow cascading past the shoulders. These figures also wear crossed sashes, a heart-shaped necklace at the throat, and tiered skirts with horseshoe motifs and red boots. Between the two figures stands a smaller animal companion — rendered in orange and red with embroidered details — possibly a cat or spirit creature. A second smaller human-like figure, outlined in green with outstretched arm, is featured along the bottom.
The elaborate costume details — crossed chest sashes, tiered ceremonial garments, distinctive headdresses, and the presence of companion figures — suggest this blouse may depict participants in a Guna ceremony, possibly an inna (chicha) celebration or puberty rite, which are occasions of great significance in Guna community life.
Worked on black cotton ground with yellow as the primary outline color, featuring extensive appliqué in red, blue, green, orange, pink, and purple. Dense multicolored embroidery throughout, with particularly fine running-stitch and chain-stitch details on the faces, hair, and stockings. Short multicolored vertical dashes fill the surrounding field, creating rhythmic visual texture. Fully filled composition demonstrating strong compositional control with bilateral symmetry across each panel.
Complete blouse with hot pink cotton yoke and gathered sleeves with black-and-white rickrack cuff trim, drawstring neckline, and orange cotton lower border band.
Provenance: From the Parker & Neal Collection
Condition
Evidence of use with minor wear consistent with age. Right side seam is unsewn. In house Flat Rate US Shipping of $15 for 1 -10 molas, $5 each additional 10 molas. Insurance is additional and required.