Panama (Guna Yala), circa 1970s
13.5 × 17 inches
An exceptional complete traditional blouse featuring matched front and back mola panels worked in three layers of reverse appliqué, appliqué, and embroidery, each presenting a densely composed narrative scene rich with bird iconography against a deep red ground.
The front panel depicts a large stylized rooster in profile, its body outlined in orange with a prominent serrated comb, a bold rectangular eye with white appliqué pupil, and an elaborately fanned tail composed of multiple curving feathers decorated with rows of small oval and square motifs in multicolored appliqué. The bird's breast and body are densely patterned with horizontal bands of small squares and dots in pink, green, yellow, and blue. Beneath the rooster, a scroll-form motif with crossed diagonal lines suggests a perch or nesting area. Four smaller stylized birds — each rendered in a different color (blue, pink, yellow, and pink) with black outlines and vertical striped bodies — occupy the corners of the composition. Additional decorative elements including S-curves, cross forms, and clover shapes fill the surrounding field. A Greek key meander border in orange and black runs along the upper register.
The back panel presents a second large rooster in a dynamic spread-wing pose, its body outlined in orange with densely patterned plumage rendered through numerous small oval, diamond, and star appliqué motifs in multicolored fabrics against black and red grounds. The wings extend outward with elaborate feather detailing, and the head features a serrated comb, prominent eye, and open beak. The body is densely filled with interlocking teardrop-shaped sections containing stars, squares, and geometric motifs, creating richly textured plumage. Four smaller bird figures again anchor the corners in varied colors, maintaining compositional consistency between panels. Short vertical dashes in yellow, green, pink, and white fill the surrounding field.
Worked on deep red/burgundy cotton ground with layers in black and orange, featuring extensive appliqué in yellow, green, blue, pink, purple, turquoise, and white. Fine hand-stitching throughout with consistent stitch density. Fully filled compositions demonstrating strong compositional control and sophisticated cutwork with complex curves, nested shapes, and intricate patterning within the bird forms.
Complete wearable blouse with distinctive green and black houndstooth-check printed fabric yoke and gathered sleeves with orange piping and rickrack trim, drawstring neckline, and pale yellow cotton lower border band.
Provenance: From the Parker & Neal Collection
Condition
Minor wear consistent with age. Vibrant color. In house Flat Rate US Shipping of $15 for 1 -10 molas, $5 each additional 10 molas. Insurance is additional and required.