On The Square

The History of Rolex Watches: Innovation, Precision, and Enduring Prestige

By Casey Gresham

Dec 17,2025 | 09:05 EST

Few luxury brands are as instantly recognizable, or as deeply rooted in technical achievement, as Rolex. Since its founding in the early 20th century, Rolex has consistently shaped how the world understands wristwatches, transforming them from delicate accessories into reliable instruments built for precision, performance, and longevity.

From a Vision of Precision (1905–1919)
Rolex was founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, who believed wristwatches could achieve the same accuracy as pocket watches; a radical idea at the time. His vision quickly proved correct. In 1910, a Rolex wristwatch earned the first Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision ever awarded to a wristwatch, followed in 1914 by a prestigious Class “A” certificate from England’s Kew Observatory. These early achievements set the foundation for Rolex’s lifelong pursuit of chronometric excellence.

The Oyster Revolution (1926–1945)
A defining moment came in 1926 with the introduction of the Rolex Oyster, the world’s first waterproof wristwatch. Its hermetically sealed case protected the movement from dust and moisture, redefining durability in watchmaking. The Oyster’s credibility was famously demonstrated in 1927, when swimmer Mercedes Gleitze crossed the English Channel wearing one—emerging with the watch still ticking. This marriage of innovation and storytelling became a hallmark of the brand.

Professional Watches and Global Travel (1953–1967)
By the mid-20th century, Rolex began designing watches for specific professional needs. Models like the GMT-Master, created for pilots navigating multiple time zones, embodied Rolex’s ability to combine technical utility with timeless design. These watches helped establish Rolex as both a toolmaker for explorers and a luxury symbol for a rapidly globalizing world.

Exploration and Engineering (1971–1992)
As exploration pushed into more extreme environments, Rolex followed. The Explorer II, introduced in 1971, addressed the needs of polar explorers and cave explorers by offering a 24-hour hand to distinguish day from night in lightless conditions. This era reinforced Rolex’s reputation for watches built not just to impress, but to endure.

Modern Complications and Advanced Materials (2000–2022)
The 21st century marked a period of intense technical innovation. Rolex introduced in-house movements, proprietary materials like Cerachrom ceramic bezels, and new complications designed for modern lifestyles. Standout launches included the Yacht-Master II with its programmable regatta countdown, and the Sky-Dweller, a sophisticated travel watch featuring an annual calendar and dual time zone display. Even today, Rolex continues to evolve while remaining unmistakably Rolex.

Featured Rolex Watches on Bidsquare:

Rolex 116688 Yacht-Master II 44 mm 18K Yellow Gold White Dial Oyster Bracelet Complete Set (2018)
Crafted in 18K yellow gold, this 44mm Yacht-Master II exemplifies Rolex’s modern technical ambition. Designed for competitive sailing, it features a programmable countdown chronograph with mechanical memory. Offered as a complete set, it’s a bold statement watch rooted in serious engineering.


Rolex, Fine Diamond & Gemstone Jewelry "Christmas Sale"
Reserve Stock Auctions
December 21, 2025 
Lot 205
Estimate: $71,820 - $75,998

Rolex Day-Date 36 “Khanjar” Dial
This distinctive Day-Date features a champagne dial bearing the Khanjar, the national emblem of Oman. Commissioned historically for diplomatic gifting, Khanjar dials are among the most collectible Rolex variations. Paired with an 18K yellow gold case, fluted bezel, and President bracelet, it represents cultural history as much as horology.


Limited Reserve: Jewels & Watches Liquidation
Robinhood Auctions
December 19, 2025 
Lot 270
Estimate: $28,000 - $56,000

Rolex Sky-Dweller Ref. 326939 (2014)
Introduced as one of Rolex’s most complex watches, the Sky-Dweller caters to global travelers. This example in 18K white gold features a black dial, fluted bezel, and Oyster bracelet, combining understated elegance with dual time zone and annual calendar functionality.


"End of The Year" Indulge Yourself in Fine Jewelry & Watches
Reserve Stock Auctions
December 28, 2025 
Lot 123
Estimate: $45,753 - $52,792

Rolex Day-Date 40 Ref. 228396TBR (2022)
Known as the “President’s Watch,” the Day-Date reaches its pinnacle in platinum, identifiable by its signature ice blue dial. This 2022 complete set pairs ultimate luxury with modern Rolex craftsmanship, making it a standout for collectors seeking contemporary prestige.


Rolex, Fine Diamond & Gemstone Jewelry "Christmas Sale"
Reserve Stock Auctions
December 21, 2025 
Lot 1049
Estimate: $127,970 - $135,875

Rolex Day-Date 40 Ref. 228345RBR (2019)
Executed in 18K rose gold with a Sundust dial and diamond-set details, this Day-Date offers a warmer, more jewelry-forward expression of the iconic model. Accompanied by box and papers, it highlights Rolex’s ability to balance tradition with modern glamour.


New Year New You
Jewelry of Distinction, Inc
January 3, 2026
Lot 50
Estimate: $78,520 - $85,650

From pioneering waterproof cases to creating some of the most recognizable luxury watches in the world, Rolex’s history is defined by innovation, consistency, and cultural impact. The featured lots on Bidsquare reflect that evolution, spanning rare historical dials, modern complications, and enduring icons,offering collectors the opportunity to own a piece of Rolex’s remarkable story.

Learn more about Rolex and register to bid on Bidsquare.com.